Let’s be real—nothing ruins a perfect summer more than seeing your once-green lawn turn into patchy, brown chaos. You water it, you mow it, you care for it like it’s your own baby. But still, the grass dies. You scratch your head, wondering what went wrong. And then, one afternoon, as you peel back a piece of turf, you see them—chubby white grubs squirming just below the surface. That’s when the light bulb goes off.
So, how do you get rid of lawn grubs?
It’s a question that thousands of homeowners ask every year, especially when the grass starts to die for no obvious reason. Lawn grubs aren’t just ugly—they’re silent destroyers. They chew through grassroots, leaving your turf helpless and hungry. And if you don’t catch them in time, they invite their friends, like raccoons and birds, who dig up your yard for a free buffet.
This guide is for anyone who’s tired of fighting a losing battle and is finally ready to win back their lawn—without going overboard or breaking the bank.
Spot the Signs: What Lawn Grub Damage Really Looks Like
Most people don’t even know they have a grub problem until it’s too late. So let me tell you from experience—it pays to spot the signs early.
Here’s how I knew something was off in my yard last fall. My grass was turning brown in irregular patches, almost like a checkerboard. At first, I blamed it on the weather. But when I stepped on the grass, it felt…spongey. Like the ground had lost its grip. That’s when I tugged on the turf and—boom!—the roots came up way too easily. Underneath? A whole army of grubs, just chilling like it was their backyard.
Early warning signs include:
- Patches of dead or thinning grass
- Grass that lifts up like a loose carpet
- Increased animal activity (skunks, birds, raccoons)
- Wilting grass even with regular watering
Want a quick way to confirm your suspicion? Cut a small square of turf and check beneath the surface. If you see more than 5-10 grubs per square foot, you’ve got yourself a full-blown infestation.
| Grub Count per Square Foot | Grub Situation | Recommended Action |
| 0–4 | Low presence | Monitor regularly |
| 5–9 | Moderate infestation | Treat preventatively |
| 10+ | Severe infestation | Start treatment immediately |
So, the big question remains—how do you get rid of lawn grubs once you’ve found them?
Understanding the Enemy: What Are Lawn Grubs, Really?
Before we jump into solutions, it helps to know what we’re up against. Lawn grubs aren’t just gross—they’re the baby versions of beetles. Yup, those Japanese beetles and June bugs you see flying around in summer? These little guys are their larval stage.
They live just under the soil, feeding on grassroots during late summer and early fall. That’s when they do the most damage. In spring, they go deeper into the soil to pupate. And by early summer? Boom—they become adult beetles, mate, and lay eggs again. The cycle repeats like clockwork unless you intervene.
So if you’re thinking short-term, you’ll only see short-term results. To really stop them, you need a plan that breaks the life cycle.
Let’s dive into some solid ways to handle this.
Organic Options: Safe Ways to Kick Grubs to the Curb
If you’re like me, you don’t love the idea of dousing your lawn in chemicals—especially if you’ve got kids or pets running around. Luckily, there are natural ways to say “bye-bye” to grubs without harming your loved ones or the planet.
Here are a few tried-and-true methods:
1. Nematodes: Tiny Heroes of the Soil
These microscopic worms are the natural predators of lawn grubs. They hunt them down, infect them, and boom—grub party’s over. You can find beneficial nematodes online or at garden centers. Just mix them with water and spray them across your lawn in the evening. They do the rest.
- Best applied in late summer or early fall
- Needs moist soil to survive
- Works in 1–2 weeks
I tried nematodes last year, and while it wasn’t instant, I noticed way less grub activity within a month. Plus, my dog didn’t have to stay off the grass, which was a win.
2. Milky Spore: The Long Game
Milky spore is a naturally occurring bacterium that infects Japanese beetle grubs. It takes longer to work—sometimes up to two years—but it lasts 10+ years in the soil once it’s established.
- Targets only Japanese beetle larvae
- Completely safe for pets and people
- Works best when applied multiple times across seasons
If you’re planning to live in your house for the long haul, milky spore is like setting up a grub-proof fence underground.
Chemical Treatments: When You Need Fast, Effective Results
Let’s be honest—sometimes natural methods aren’t enough. If your lawn is under serious attack and you need results now, chemical treatments can give you that edge.
But timing is everything. Most grub killers fall into two categories: preventative and curative.
1. Preventative Grub Control
Products like imidacloprid and chlorantraniliprole are applied in early summer, before grubs hatch. They stay in the soil and kill newly hatched larvae before they can do any real damage.
- Apply May to July
- Won’t kill existing grubs
- Provides season-long protection
I used this after a bad grub season, and my lawn stayed green the entire next year. It felt like giving the grass an invisible shield.
2. Curative Grub Control
If it’s already late summer or early fall and your grass is already dying, curative treatments like carbaryl or trichlorfon are your go-to. These kill active grubs within days.
- Apply August to October
- Fast-acting
- May need reapplication
Just remember: always water your lawn after applying chemicals to help the product reach the grub zone. And follow label directions to the letter.
The Watering Trap: Don’t Overdo It
Here’s something that took me years to figure out—overwatering your lawn is like rolling out the red carpet for grubs. They love moist soil because it makes it easier to burrow in and lay eggs.
If you’re always soaking your lawn, especially in the evenings, you might be creating the perfect breeding ground.
Tips to avoid overwatering:
- Water deeply but less frequently (2–3 times a week)
- Water early in the morning to reduce evaporation
- Let the top inch of soil dry out between sessions
Smart irrigation isn’t just good for your water bill—it also keeps those little pests at bay.
Routine Lawn Care: Your Best Defense Against Grubs
After battling grubs for a couple of years, I learned something powerful—a healthy lawn is your best weapon. Seriously. Grubs go after stressed-out grass. They thrive in lawns that are underfed, overwatered, or compacted. So, if you really want to say goodbye to grubs for good, you’ve got to show your lawn a little love year-round.
Here’s what worked wonders for me:
- Aerate your soil every fall or spring. It helps oxygen, water, and nutrients reach deep into the roots.
- Fertilize regularly. Use a balanced, slow-release fertilizer to keep your lawn strong.
- Mow high. Keep your grass around 3 inches tall. It shades the soil and makes it harder for beetles to lay eggs.
- Dethatch if needed. Too much thatch (more than half an inch) gives grubs a comfy hiding place.
Honestly, once I got consistent with these habits, I noticed fewer pests and more resilient turf overall. Think of it like feeding your immune system—your grass gets strong enough to resist attacks on its own.
DIY or Call in the Pros? Choosing Your Grub-Fighting Strategy
Now, let’s talk real life. Should you handle grubs yourself, or hire a professional? There’s no one-size-fits-all answer. It depends on your time, budget, and how bad the infestation is.
Here’s a quick breakdown to help you decide:
| Method | Cost | Effort Level | Best For |
| DIY (Organic) | Low–Medium | Moderate | Eco-conscious homeowners |
| DIY (Chemical) | Medium | High | Fast results with time to apply |
| Professional Service | High | Low | Severe infestations or busy schedules |
My Take?
I started with DIY methods—milky spore, nematodes, the works. But when things got out of hand, I called a local lawn care pro. Yes, it cost more, but within weeks, my lawn was back to its green, happy self. I still do the basics myself, but I bring in the pros every spring for a preventative treatment. It’s like paying for peace of mind.
So, ask yourself: Do I have the time and patience? Or do I need guaranteed results now? Either way, there’s no shame in asking for help when your lawn’s health is on the line.
Grub Control by Season: A Simple, Year-Round Schedule
Timing is everything when dealing with lawn grubs. They don’t cause damage year-round, but they are active in specific seasons—and knowing when to strike makes all the difference.
Spring (March–May):
- Grubs are deeper in the soil but slowly moving up.
- Aerate and fertilize your lawn.
- Apply milky spore or start prepping for nematode treatment.
Summer (June–August):
- Adult beetles are laying eggs.
- Apply preventative grub control (imidacloprid, chlorantraniliprole).
- Avoid heavy watering.
Fall (September–November):
- Grubs feed aggressively before going dormant.
- Use curative treatments if you spot damage.
- Overseed bare patches and strengthen lawn roots.
Winter (December–February):
- Grubs are dormant deep underground.
- Rest up and plan for spring maintenance.
By aligning your grub strategy with the seasons, you give yourself a head start—and reduce the chance of an infestation in the first place.
True Story: How I Took My Lawn from Grub-Wrecked to Gorgeous
A few years ago, my yard looked like a war zone. Big brown patches. Raccoon holes. Grass that lifted like old carpet. I was frustrated and embarrassed every time neighbors walked by.
But I decided to learn everything I could about how do you get rid of lawn grubs. I read articles, talked to experts, even joined a lawn care Facebook group. And I built a game plan.
- I applied nematodes in August.
- Followed up with preventative chemical treatment the next spring.
- Aerated, fertilized, and raised my mower blade.
- And I stayed consistent.
By the next summer, my lawn was lush and green again. No more digging animals. No more shame. Just soft, thick grass I could proudly walk barefoot on. And let me tell you—that felt amazing.
If I can do it, you can too.
Emotional Payoff: It’s More Than Just Grass
You might think this is just about fixing a lawn. But honestly? It’s deeper than that.
A healthy lawn is where your kids play barefoot in the summer. Where your dog rolls around without hitting dirt patches. It’s where you host BBQs, relax in a hammock, or lie on your back watching clouds roll by.
Getting rid of grubs isn’t just about pest control—it’s about reclaiming your space. It’s about knowing that when you put in the effort, nature rewards you. That feeling of accomplishment? It sticks.
So next time someone asks you, “Hey, how do you get rid of lawn grubs?”, you’ll know what to say. And maybe, just maybe, you’ll be the one giving out friendly advice, cold drink in hand, while your grass waves in the breeze.
Conclusion: Reclaim Your Lawn—One Step at a Time
So, to wrap it up: how do you get rid of lawn grubs? Start with knowledge. Add a little patience. Mix in the right tools—organic or chemical, DIY or professional. And stay one step ahead by caring for your lawn consistently.
Here’s a quick summary to guide you:
- Spot the signs early: Brown patches, soft turf, animal activity.
- Choose your treatment: Organic (nematodes, milky spore) or chemical (preventative or curative).
- Maintain smart lawn habits: Aerate, fertilize, mow high, and water wisely.
- Follow the seasons: Time treatments for maximum effectiveness.
- Ask for help if needed: Don’t be afraid to call in the pros.
Remember, it’s not just grass. It’s your little piece of the world. Take it back—and enjoy it.
